SHIMMERING BROCADE JACKET - McCALL'S M7730 PATTERN REVIEW

I just finished sewing McCall’s M7730 and I am in love! I had seen a few brocade versions of this jacket on instagram, and then realized I already owned the pattern. I first planned to make it out of the green brocade in the background of my photos….but then I saw this one at Mood. This insane, oil slick, iridescent metallic magic is an Anna Sui fabric. When I first saw it, I only got a swatch. I went back 2 days later for 3 yards.

As glittery as this fabric is, I felt it could use something even more extra, so I made a self drafted, hand beaded detachable collar. I’ll write my next post about that collar. If you’re interested in a pattern and/or tutorial for the collar, let me know! I’d be happy to share how I made it.

I think this is a fun pattern right out of the envelope, but I wanted it to be a little more substantial, because I was using such fancy fabric. I drafted facings and a front overlap, so I could have snap closures. These alterations are not necessary, but they make a nice finish and will help the lining from drooping. I’ve included a full pattern review below, explaining all my modifications.

Pattern Description:

“Loose fitting lined jackets have length and sleeve variations. C: Hook and eye closures, side pockets. D: Patch pockets. NOTE: Includes separate pattern pieces for A/B, C, and D cups.”

Pattern Sizing:

I chose my usual 12, with C cup option.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

I made a bunch of changes, but it's similar.

Were the instructions easy to follow?

Yes, the instructions are clear. The method for machine sewing the back vent is simple.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

This would be a quick make out of the envelope. I was surprised that the pattern does not call for facings or interfacing anywhere; you might want to add some.

Fabric Used:

Behold! A glorious & glittering metallic brocade that tempted me when the absolute last thing I needed was brocade (I had...5 cuts? at home). It’s from Mood. The back side is block fused with a very lightweight woven, which prevents it from fraying. The lining is heavy poly satin.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

• Lowered bust dart 1”.

• Cut front pieces 12 but graded to 14 at side seams starting below bust dart.

• For the back piece, I slash & spread the back piece - I cut horizontally below the armscye and vertically parallel to the grainline at about the middle of the piece, and pivoted it out. This added a wedge, giving me an additional 1” at the hip/bum. I like to do this instead of just adding to the side seams as it gives more volume in the back, not just the side.

• Used both in-seam and patch pockets from pattern.

• Added 3” length at hem (I am 5’8”).

• Drafted facings at neckline and front openings, which I interfaced. I think this jacket benefits from the structure and it looks nice when you wear it open.

• Additionally, I added 1" strips of interfacing: at the fashion fabric hem; inside the top edge of patch pockets; seam allowance at in seam pockets; and at the fold in the bell sleeve (essentially sleeve hem).

• Extended front pieces 1.5" so they overlap at center front, and added snap closures.

• For the lining, I attached neckline and fronts on the machine, underlined and trimmed. I attached the sleeve bell as per pattern. I made the vent, then machine blind hemmed the fashion fabric, and then hand attached the lining hem.

• Upper sleeve: This is designed to be a topper, so there isn't a ton of ease in the upper sleeve. If you want to wear this over a sweater, you may wish size up the upper sleeve. I could have gotten the shoulder in without any gathers, but I kinda liked the puff, so I left it.

• Lower sleeve: I used the piece for view D, but took out 7" width and added a few inches length. I gathered instead of pleating.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

Yes, I'd love to make this again, with no front overlap as per pattern. Yes, I recommend the pattern.

Conclusion:

I'm so pleased with my new jacket - maybe now it's a coat? This is a fun pattern.