PROJECT PLANNING - VINTAGE SEWING PATTERNS I WANT TO SEW THIS SPRING
There’s nothing better than flipping through older patterns!!
Happy Spring! It’s sunny and quite cold in the Hudson Valley as I type this, which makes me both optimistic, and glad my daily walk is done so I can stay cozy inside and scheme. I have pulled out some vintage patterns I’d like to sew this spring. Let’s dive in and make some plans!
Vintage Vogue 8894 with the fabric and notions I plan to sew it with.
Detail of the envelope cover of Vintage Vogue 1043.
First up is Vintage Vogue 8894. Not dated, I assume mid 1970s. This blouse features what look like 3/8” pin tucks up the front bodice, 2” lace insertion, a lace trimmed neckline treatment, three sleeve variations, and front button placket. All things I love in a blouse!
I have a thin, slightly sheer and delightfully crinkly cotton from the antiques mall that would be ideal for this pattern. Since the pattern calls for 6.5 yards of 2” lace, and 1 yard of 1” lace, I went ahead and purchased 8 yards of a 2” wide lace from Trim Art in Manhattan. This lace can be cut down to 1” or folded in half for use around the neckline. I pulled out some antique glass buttons I purchased at the flea market in Paris, but I think black buttons would have better impact, so those are just place holders for now.
Vogue Americana Pattern 1043 by Oscar De La Renta.
This gorgeous pattern has been simmering in my stash: Vogue Americana 1043, by Oscar De La Renta. Not dated, but I assume mid 1970s based on multiple comments I received on Instagram from women who sewed this dress during that time period (wonderful to hear those stories!!!). Pattern is cut and complete - I love knowing someone used my copy too.
The design is simple and gorgeous. Let’s keep it wearable. I have some light weight black linen that would be ideal. Personally, I dislike when the front waistline dips into that V shape - too many memories of early 90s Easter dresses or something. But I think I will sew this as per Oscar’s vision.
My personal GOAT: Vintage Simplicity 5956.
Here we have Vintage Simplicity 5956 from 1973. This is not my first Rodeo. I think it will by my fourth. But you know what? I’m a loud and proud pattern repeater and outfit repeater. If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.
Whenever I need to “dress up” and want to feel comfortable - not just physically, but emotionally - I reach for my Cherry Dress, which is this pattern in silk charmeuse. (I’ve also sewn two versions in cotton lawn, but they are shorter, and therefore worn less.) The cherry print charmeuse is heavier than what you usually find, and was printed on the matte side of the fabric, so the shiny satin side is against your skin. I have yet to come across another fabric so luxe, in a print I so adore, but I’ll keep looking.
In the meantime, I’m using this lovely silk charmeuse from Fabric Mart to create another version of this dress. The stripes are printed diagonally, so when cut on the straight grain, it almost looks like it was cut on the bias. Very cool. Will it be my birthday dress this year? Very possible.
My beloved Vintage Butterick 5744.
Well if it isn’t Vintage Butterick 5744, not dated but I’m gonna guess late 1960s or early 70s. When I first started collecting vintage patterns, I only had eyes for Butterick. Then I branched out into sleepwear from all brands. And now I just own hundreds of patterns of all kinds. Whoops! Anyway. You know her. You love her. I am obsessed with her. It’s Vintage Butterick 5744.
Do I need another one? Actually yes. My black version has not aged well, the fabric has gotten pilled and I hate the texture. The purple one is my most worn vacation dress (it’s the white one, I dyed it), and the orange one is something I wear more than you might expect, but it’s held up fabulously. I don’t know what color I’d want to make next, or what fabric. But I know sewing this pattern does a soothing factory reset on my brain every time.
Vintage McCall’s 9361.
As chic as it gets! Pattern envelope detail from Vintage McCall’s 9361.
Speaking of sleepwear patterns, here is Vintage McCall’s 9361, copyright 1968. It doesn’t get more chic than this. The hair, the earrings, the shoes! Ladies, where are you going, and can I join you?
I’m thinking views B and E would work best in my wardrobe. I like the necklines on both. In the photo you can see a fabric I pulled out for this pattern - a super light weight, sheer cotton. The fabric is likely from the same era as the pattern, which is always sweet. I’ll have to dig through my trim boxes to see if I have something complimentary.
Vintage McCall’s 4843, a Laura Ashley pattern.
Details of the pattern envelope illustration for Vintage McCall’s 4843 - this era has sort of charming fembot illustrations.
Guess what? It’s just sleepwear from here. Vintage McCall’s 4843 is a Laura Ashley licensed design from 1975. While I love sewing nightgowns to be worn as dresses, here I am focused on the robe (though I would like to sew the dress, too). I have some soft, lightweight, light pink 50/50 cotton/linen fabric that would hold the pin tucks and ruffles well, while maintaining a soft casual rumple that feel appropriate for a summer robe.
The absolutely insane envelope of Vintage Simplicity 9783.
Let’s take a look at Vintage Simplicity 9783, from 1980. If you’d like to cosplay Little House on the Prairie, you might go for a brown flannel as per the envelope, but as I’ve said about this pattern in the past: don’t judge a book by it’s cover!
I feel confident no one would ever know I used this pattern to make my previous version of this dress. The pattern is a solid, simple-to-sew nightgown with a round yoke and button front placket. The overall shape is as easy as it gets, making it the perfect blank canvas for having some fun. I don’t know what fabric I’ll use for this, but it’ll have a bit more pizzazz than the envelope cover (she’s cute though!).
Have you sewn any of these? Or do you have them lingering in your stash? Let me know, let’s bring them to life! XO, Martha