sewing, style, DIY, fashionMartha PorterComment

The truth about this top is, I sewed in one sitting, which ended at 5:30am and was fueled by British crime procedural TV shows (Broadchurch is kinda boring but kept me going). I think I started cutting the pattern around 9pm, so really it wasn’t that time cosuming, lol.

What makes this piece special is the fabric: Those clipped dots are NEON, and the base fabric is a light, slightly sheer cotton voile. This fabric really is as incredible as you might be imagining. The bad news is, I bought it on eBay and I think it was a one of a kind find - it shipped directly from India. I used most of my 3 yard cut, 44” wide. I am always hunting for Swiss dot fabric, and sometimes it leads me to technicolor greatness. I think this pattern would also be beautiful in a slightly sheer silk, or a drapey fabric with a touch of metallic.


I have a full pattern review below, but I want to warn you up front: I found that this pattern requires alterations to be wearable. I think the instructions are fine, but if you haven’t sewn a yoke before, they might not be sufficient for your first attempt. I am happy with the results, but I would only suggest this pattern if you plan to make a muslin and/or tissue fit, and if you feel comfortable making some changes to the pattern. Now that I have the pattern adjusted, I think I might make it again, so the extra work was worth it. If you make one, let me know! XO

Pattern Description: 
“Very loose-fitting tops have front that gathers into yoke, back yoke with button closure, and sleeve variations. A: Contrast yoke and sleevebands. C: Contrast lower sleeve.”

Pattern Sizing: 
I started with my usual 12...

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes.

Were the instructions easy to follow? 
There is no instruction regarding mitering the corners of the ruffle. Yoke instructions are ok if you’ve made a blouse with a yoke before. Overall, the instructions seem fine to me, but presume a level of knowledge; this pattern is probably best suited for intermediate on up.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
• Removed 1” from CF yoke width. Holding it up to my body before cutting, I contemplated cutting this piece at size 6 because it’s so wide, but removing an inch is more drastic than the 6, so I went with removing 1”.
• Added 2” CF bodice width. Pattern claims to be “very loose” but I’d say it’s “semi-fitted”. I wanted fullness, and even adding 2” and using minimal seam allowance was not enough to give satisfactory style ease. The back pieces do not “gather” into the yoke, they basically ease in. If I hadn’t added width, there almost isn't enough ease to get this on.
• Speaking of ease, the upper sleeve is skin tight. Possibly negative ease. For me, this was unwearable as drafted! I slashed & spread to get what I want, and then had to patch together scraps to re-cut (seams hidden in armpit). I added about 1.25” width.
• Shortened sleeve ruffle 3”.
• Shortened length 3”.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Now that I have made the necessary alterations, I would consider making this pattern again, because I love that the ruffles go all the way around the yoke. You can make a nice blouse, but it needs to be adjusted beyond the usual fitting tweaks, and as drafted, it is not “very loose fitting” like the envelope says. I recommend making a muslin.