2020 SEWING PLANS FOLLOW UP: MARCH CHECK-IN

In January, I decided to try making some sewing plans. My stash had outgrown it’s shelf, and it seemed like a good time for an inventory. Usually, I’m more on the fly - I decide what to make at the last moment. Often, I have one or two ideas for every cut of fabric floating around in my mind, and then one day I see the pattern I think is the best option, and go for it. But it couldn’t hurt to be a little more organized when it came to using fabrics and patterns I already owned. So here is a check in on my progress.

THE GOOD:

I started off strong with this dress: Vogue 9328 in Reformation viscose crepe. It’s worth noting that this was my third time sewing this pattern (always with a few tweaks and new details), so I knew how to sew it, and I knew I’d wear it a lot - one of the previous versions literally fell apart (don’t use cheap fabric!).

My machine hated this thread, so my tension is too loose here. Please try to overlook it, that’s what I’m doing.

Next, the Ogden Cami. This is an awesome pattern, and recently we’ve been having a real good time together. I’ve sewn it in black silk CDC, and leopard crepe left over from this dress. I still have not sewn it in the silk charmeuse from my planning post, but I know it’s gonna happen. I’d like to dye that silk first.

Recently, I’ve sewn the Ogden twice as a slip: I omit the facing and use a simple lingerie technique to add lace at the neckline and hem, carefully cutting away the fabric behind the lace. Should I write a post about how I do that? It’s a fantastic afternoon project, and feels very fancy to wear. I wear slips under my sheer dresses or any dresses that get staticky (I am super static prone wtf), and I sleep in them. So I would like to make a few more.

Still good: This one was recent. It’s McCall’s 7947 and I wrote all about it here. I love this dress as an object, and I loved sewing it, but I am still on the fence if it is something I will want to wear. I’m guessing I will reach for it more when the weather warms up, or maybe for a party.

THE BAD:

I realize that my instagram gallery is filled with successful projects, so now is a great time to tell you that I sew absolute fucking wadders, too. Sometimes you feel it coming, this project is going to suck. But other times, everything is smooth sailing until you try it on, and it’s absolutely not what you wanted. That’s what happened here.

I purchased this Marc Jacobs silk/cotton blend fabric at Mood specifically to sew Vintage Butterick 5311, but I left the project to sit untouched until I made my sewing plan. The fabric is sheer and too crisp - more cottony than silky. It felt a little off from the jump, but I kept going. I spent so much time matching the plaid, which is digitally printed oh-so-slightly off grain, making it a total pain to work with. I followed the pattern to a T, and it’s a simple, easy to sew pattern. I think this style would work for a lot of people and/or in a different fabric, but I am not pleased with my creation. It lacks drape, poufs in all the wrong places, and generally looks like a granny’s nightgown, in the bad way.

I am often upset with dress projects that lack a waist seam, and this was no exception. Surprisingly, the thin elastic at the waist made this effect worse, so I removed it. The upper back is SO puffy, and I find it deeply unflattering to belt it all in, only to have it pouf out in an uncontrolled manner. My feelings are mixed. I love the sleeve, I like the fabric just OK at this point (and could probably cut a different project out of this dress), I don’t know, there’s potential but…..this dress has been stuffed to the bottom of my Basket of Doom until further notice.

Next for Bad: Here we have Simplicity 8389. I guess this isn’t a failure yet, but it’s in limbo, and I don’t like that. I wanted to try batch cutting projects, because I hate cutting. I spent a day cutting a pink linen skirt, the pink dress above, and these polka dot pants. I sewed the skirt and the dress. I don’t feel like sewing these pants! I don’t wanna! I think I’ll get to these once my sewing machine and serger are threaded with black thread (lol after some other project that I feel like sewing first. Update: everything is threaded black. No, I do not feel like sewing these pants.). So in conclusion, batch cutting isn’t my jam, and this cut project is in the Basket of Doom (but optimistically on the top of the heap).

Here is the skirt I just mentioned. Vintage Very Easy Vogue 9850. It is casually draped at the top of the Basket of Doom because the waistband is tight and has zero stretch. I need to add a closure, and I think I can fudge something to make it more comfortable. I just lost interest and haven’t gotten around to it yet.

This pattern is a winner! If you see it around, snag it. It includes 3 separate skirt patterns - they are all a little different - and it’s just an ideal basic. Easy construction, big pockets…I don’t have anything remotely critical to say, and I will sew it again (adding a bit to the waistband).

Here is the Basket of Doom. The leopard print coating is just there because I don’t have space to store it elsewhere. It is not cursed!! Otherwise, this is where I put wadders, unfinished projects (which tbh are very rare for me), scraps that I can’t let go of, and half baked ideas.

WHAT’S NEXT:

I’d say that for every project I sewed from my January planning post, I sewed one project not in the plan. Which usually means something super functional or solid black. I pointedly didn’t plan for all black projects, instead, I like to make what I need when I need it (I wear a lot of black). So to me, I think that’s a win! I will keep sewing from the January plan with a few minor tweaks.

I’ve been pretty disciplined with buying fabric, though I picked up 2 new cuts yesterday, oops. The main goal of my sewing plan was to use up stash, but it has made me realize that I have fabrics in my stash that I bought a few years ago, before I realized they would be sort of unsuitable for my dressing preferences (I’m talking about non-stretch, crisp cottons - so easy to sew, not my favorite to wear).

I think my next step for project planning will be to view things more as a collection, and to create pieces with less focus on wearablility. I can always make myself simple, wearable garments. But I’m not sure how long it will hold my interest or push my creative abilities. So I’m ready to get back into sketching and coming up with more fanciful concepts. Maybe that’s my next goal here? I’ll let you know how it goes. XO Martha