I sew a lot. Which means I buy materials often. I use them, but also they end up in stash - which could mean a material sits on a shelf patiently awaiting its turn, or maybe it is used often, but just a little bit (like Fray Check, or stay tape). While I keep a vague tally on how much I spend annually, I do not carefully budget. Which means I don’t always have an accurate idea of what things cost. Well, this time is different.

Before diving in, I want to address the cost of sewing. Some people come to the hobby with the notion that sewing your own clothing costs less than purchasing ready to wear. Perhaps this was true decades ago, but it is not typically the case in current times (we can save the complex reasons for that for another post). Fabric is expensive, notions quickly add up, pattern prices are creeping up in a way that continues to shock me. I haven’t even mentioned sewing machines. There are many factors involved but long story short: sewing is not cheap. But there are times when making something myself costs less than buying it, (though I will admit I have expensive taste). A coat is one of those times.

LET’S BREAK IT DOWN!

Because of our recent international move, most of my earthly possessions are in a storage unit on the side of the highway, so I did not pull from stash for my current wool coat project. I bought most of my materials in Manhattan’s Garment District, giving me access to a wider variety of fabrics, notions, and prices than most people. You can spend as much or as little as you like in Midtown - seriously, there are extremely expensive fabrics available. But I always keep my eye out for a good deal. Let’s break it down!

My most used Japanese sewing book by far.

PATTERN:

I am using my favorite Japanese sewing book, Step Up Sewing, block D, with some modifications. I have already sewn two coats from this book: my red wool one and my leopard coat. I have also borrowed collars and pockets from this book for numerous projects. But guess what? I couldn’t find it in storage - and if I could I would calculate the cost of the pattern differently, factoring in previous use. But instead, I bought a new one. (I will give the duplicate copy to a friend when I am reunited with my first copy.) PATTERN: $26.

My wool fabric is brushed on one side creating a noticeable nap. The color is difficult to capture: glowing periwinkle!

Fusible weft insertion interfacing is a good choice to add stability and heft to coat projects.

FABRIC & interfacing:

My glowing periwinkle wool is from It’s A Material World in Manhattan’s garment district. It has been brushed on one side, giving it a distinct nap. At 60” wide, and $30 per yard, I requested 3 yards. If you are a regular in midtown, you might get a little extra. :) I measured 3.5 yards when I got home. WOOL COATING: $90.

As I was making my way to the register, I spotted a big fat bolt of fusible weft insertion interfacing in the jammed aisles and requested 3 yards of that, as well. INTERFACING: $15.

My lining is a poly satin in the same color, but several shades darker than my wool.

Hair canvas, aka Hymo, comes in a few weights, this is a lighter weight one.

LINING & CANVAS:

Next stop: Mood. They have a polyester satin I like to use for linings. It’s a little heavier than what most people select for linings, but I like the added wind blocking, and Mood always stocks a wide array of colors. I requested 2.5 yards at $9 per yard. LINING: $22.50

I love using hair canvas and pad stitching in my collars for structure and crisp shape. I know I have plenty of this in storage, oh well. While at Mood, I requested the minimum 1/2 yard cut of Hymo. HAIR CANVAS: $7.

THREAD:

For thread, I amalway gonna head to SIL Thread, because they have everything. I bought two jumbo spools of Gutterman, one of them is topstitch weight. $5 each for more than I will need on this project alone. THREAD: $10.

I am also using Gutterman silk thread for pad stitching and some hand sewing on the inside of the shell. I don’t have a receipt for this (or memory of buying it), but we know the going rate. SILK THREAD: $3.84

SHOULDER PADS AND SLEEVE HEADS:

These actually came from my stash! When we left Glasgow, I made myself a little sewing kit with random notions, and had the foresight to include these. I know I bought them at SIL Thread in Manhattan so it’s funny, these have had quite a journey. They were purchased a while back and I don’t have a receipt but the prices are easy to guess, I’ll round up to $4 for shoulder pads and $3 for sleeve heads. SHOULDER PADS & SLEEVE HEADS: $7

BUTTONS:

I struggled with buttons for this project and I will tell you right now, there is a good chance I will buy more buttons because I’m not quite satisfied. After looking at MANY options at multiple stores, I finally threw down at Pacific Trimming. I went with six pieces even though I will only use five. You never regret having a back up in stash. Nice, big buttons are not cheap, these cost $0.90 each.

EDIT: Guys. I went wild. I returned to M&J, where buttons are big and expensive. They have good options for coats and jackets! I bought 5 new buttons, because purchasing and extra seemed insane. The first set I purchased set me back $5.40, the new ones were significantly more.

BUTTONS: $20 (yeah.)

BUTTONHOLES:

Buttonholes have not been done yet, but it has always been my plan to have them done at Jonathan Embroidery Plus in Manhattan - a nice treat to myself at the end of a project! I don’t know the exact cost as they formulate it on site, but I would guess it’s the same as last time I went with a coat.

EDIT: I had 5 corded keyhole buttonholes done. My original estimate was $9, but it came out to less.

BUTTONHOLES: $7.50

TOTALS:

Materials: $162.74 (EDIT: $175.84)

Pattern: $26

GRAND TOTAL: $188.74 (EDIT: $201.84)

Cost of labor? Whew. I don’t have the discipline or desire to track my hours spent on this project, or any sewing project. I’m not at work, this is my hobby. So let’s just say priceless. (It took less time than I thought it would.) I can say this with confidence: this coat will outlast me. It has been well constructed out of quality materials, and if well cared for, it will see more winters than I do. To me, $190 is a pretty good price for a coat, not to mention it fits me perfectly and no one else will have it! Worth it.

Let me know if you’d like to see more projects broken down like this! XO, Martha

THE COST OF A WOOL COAT - PRICE OF ALL MATERIALS USED TO SEW A WINTER COAT