EASY BREEZY LITTLE BLACK DRESS - VINTAGE BUTTERICK 3827 WITH A TUCKED & FOLDED INSET
I needed a quick project to get me back into sewing after vacation, so I reached for vintage Butterick 3827, a pattern I’ve been meaning to try out for a while. This pattern surprised me on every level: fast & easy to sew but plenty of opportunity for technique and embellishment, swingy easy fit, and super comfortable to wear.
Butterick 3827 was published in 1974, and I used my usual size 12.
The pattern suggests a lace overlay on the bodice inset panel, and that got my imagination working overtime. I could add beads, sequins, a pieced quilt block, embroidery…. the possibilities are endless! But I also wanted to use this black handkerchief linen remnant and keep things “simple”. My compromise was to use only the linen fabric, but to add some fabric manipulation for texture and interest.
My tucked and folded panel.
I started by making 1cm wide tucks across a large scrap of fabric. I should have measured first, because my finished panel was just exactly big enough to work! I pressed all the tucks to one side and stitched them down. Then, every 2 inches, I pushed the tucks in the opposite direction and stitched them down again. This is a pretty simple technique with really impressive results. The fabric becomes super dimensional, and even with solid black fabric, which is so difficult to photograph, the light bounces around and the texture is visible from every angle.
The sash does all the shaping work here, creating a lovely A-line silhouette.
The instructions are very good. I followed them exactly except for the sew-in interfacing; I used fusible interfacing on the facings. The pattern includes instructions for adding trim to the neckline, hem, and sleeve hems. I skipped that but may add trim to a future version. The tissue is printed with lots of notches, dots, and squares, all of which line up correctly.
The back has just the right amount of fullness, and it nips in at the waist with the attached sash.
I sewed this right out of the envelope. I don't know why I did that (yes I do: impatience). I sewed the side seams with smaller seam allowance through the hips, which in the end was not necessary, there is plenty of ease. Next time I will lengthen the bodice a bit above the apex (typical adjustment for me) and might lower the armholes 3/8”. That being said, it is totally wearable.
I used my rolled hem foot to hem the sleeves. The result is nice and fluttery!
This was my test garment for this pattern, and I like it! I will absolutely sew this again, both as a top and as a dress. My imagination continues to come up with elaborate ideas for the bodice panel.
I recommend the pattern for any experience level - a beginner ready for easy set in sleeves (gathering means it's easy to set) and a square neckline facing (just be precise at the corners) could get a great result. No buttons or zippers to worry about. A perfect, easy summer dress. Let me know if you give it a try!
XO, Martha